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San Sebastián Summer: The Unexpected by Marsha Donaldson-Smith When I left Reno in June, I felt totally prepared for my six weeks in the Basque Country. After all, I had read Sweet Promised Land, In a Hundred Graves (twice), and The Sun Also Rises; talked with Carmelo about housing, flights, and classes; studied Spanish for two semesters at UNR; examined Basque government brochures describing the places we would visit on field trips; and had made all the necessary arrangements to take care of my son, dog, house and work during my time in Spain. I anticipated a time of study, a chance to experience another country, and a much needed rest. Technically, I was ready. I soon discovered, however, that I was emotionally unprepared for the people I was about to meet. These people included the other students in our group, the professors, the staff at the Bar Iruńa where we ate dinner each evening, the students from other areas of Spain staying at LaSalle (our resident hall), the residents of “our neighborhood” the barrio Loyola, individuals I met on my own (shopkeepers, LaSalle employees) and through introductions (a social group, members of a gastronomical society) and not least, our directors Patricia O’Connor and Felix Menchacatorre. I was constantly amazed at how open, friendly, giving, and helpful everyone was an how truly concerned they were that we have an enjoyable experience. I thought that my time there, aside from classes, would be spent pretty much on my own. Looking over the information provided before the trip, I knew that the other students were from all over the United States with one from Israel. Most were still in school pursuing a degree. Then there was the matter of age – the majority were in their early 20s and on the other end of the scale in their 40s and 50s. As the parent of a nine-year-old, a student turning 30, and the owner of a small business, I didn’t imagine having much in common with the other people in the program. Surprisingly, we had much to share. It was interesting to discover what had drawn this diverse group to the San Sebastián program. In the sharing of classes, housing, meals and experiences there soon developed a common bond. Since we did not go everywhere as one big group, we were interested in the experiences each gained from venturing out on our own: what had happened on a previous night out on the town; where to find good buys on clothes and shoes; which bus or train to take to get to nearby towns; where to find a new flavor of ice cream or a good pastry shop, etc. Like a large family with different interests, we would sometimes only be together as a group at our evening meal. The people that fixed it and served us at the restaurant became a part of our “family.” Always there was a welcoming smile, a question about our day or studies, an extra serving of a favorite dish. After telling the cook, Xavier, how much I enjoyed the “tortilla,” one afternoon he gave several of us a cooking demonstration of the dish that is a Basque staple. After a daylong field trip on the 4th of July, we returned to the restaurant to find special decorations on the tables, a cake with 211 candles (the age of the USA) and champagne waiting for us. When an article about our group appeared in the local paper, El Diario Vasco, they carefully put it aside for their own scrapbooks. The classes added a dimension which enhanced my time there. My teachers (Jon Bilbao, History; Teresa del Valle, Culture) were not only very knowledgeable, but also very enthusiastic about the subjects they were teaching. To learn in class about the dolmens, cromlechs and cave printings of a people that originated there and then to see them on field trips, made our sense of history in that land even more powerful. Also, to be in a country where there is such an obvious zeal for politics and tradition among the people and to be able to discuss these elements in class brought a deeper understanding of what it is to be Basque. As for having my 30th birthday in Spain – away from my son, the rest of my family, my friends – what could have been a lonely day became instead one of my most treasured. It started with an early morning jog from LaSalle to the ocean for a swim. After breakfast, I went to pick up a beautiful bronze statue by Josep Bofill, a well-known Spanish artist. I had told the saleslady two days previously that I would be back to purchase it as a birthday present to myself. When I arrived it was gift-wrapped and with a bow! That night a special dinner had been arranged for me at a gastronomical society by Patxi Ezkiaga, director of the LaSalle school. Not only were we treated to an incredible meal, but during dinner a member of the society serenaded us with opera selections. I was given a beautiful book about the Basque wine country, Txakolina, some cassettes of Basque music and even a gift for my son. After the dessert and coffee the members of the society came in and joined us for singing and dancing. Patxi played the guitar until his fingers were blistered, switching then to a harmonica. We had such a good time that they invited us back twice more for dessert and also fixed us a special farewell lunch. During my conversations with a variety of local people, we discussed life in America, the Basque Country, and, of course, politics. It was very important to our new friends that we explain to the people here that the newspaper accounts of political violence and demonstrations are not representative of the Basque people in general. In the coming years my Spanish may get rusty and I’ll soon forget the dates of events I learned in my history class, but I’ll never forget the people I met and the deep friendships that were formed. |
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